24th november

Clamshell lighting

this week we learned how to create clamshell lighting in the studio. this is done with two lights, one which is angled above the subject and another, which is a filler light, below. this is done to create a smooth and natural look. with this lighting technique, it can enhance the facial structure due to the position of the lights. they create soft shadows under the cheekbones and a slightly deeper shadow under the chin to extenuate the jawline. the shadows are controlled by the second light as it controls the intensity of the shadows. it looks close to flat lighting, but with this technique, it brings out the facial structure instead of blending them out. with flat lighting, it doesn’t bring out any shadows, which means it does not extenuates the face as much as clamshell lighting.

More practical work research/layers

we research more about different photographers who use layers in their work. we researched Olga Ganzha and Chloe Ostmo, who use layers in their work. Ostmo showcases her work by hanging the individual parts of a photo from the ceiling and placing them in a way that you need to look in a specific way to see the whole photo.


we learned a technique called dodge and burn, which is used if parts of the image needs to be exposed longer then others. this is done by first exposing the while image first, then a piece of black card is hovered over a part of the image that does not need to be exposed longer. shaking it in order to fade both parts of the image together and to not create a visible line. I found this a little difficult as I had to guess where to put the card. another technique we learned was to blend two images together. this is also done with the dodge and burn technique, but instead covers half of the paper first to get the effect. I also had trouble with this due to guessing where the images blend together. I overcame this by testing first how it would look like. another technique was double exposure, like the technique done in photoshop, you use two images and blend them together. in the darkroom, this is done by placing two negatives into the holder and exposing them to create the effect. this looks better then on photoshop as the images keep their detail while exposed. Again, with this I had problems, mostly to do with exposure. because the images were dark in the negatives, I found it hard to correctly expose them. some of by test images were either too dark or nothing showed up.


17th November

dscf1336light drawing

This week, we learned how to create light drawings. Which is basically a photo that uses light to draw something. this is done by putting the camera on a timer where it process the photo at a slow rate in order to pick up the light. This needed to be done in the dark, otherwise the camera would not pick up the light as well. For example, if it was done in a well lit room, the light used to create the drawing would not be as defined as well if it was in a dark room. I tested it with this light up stick that Barry brought in, which reminded me of a lightsaber.


With these photos, we used the makeshift lightsaber to create patterns. The colors shown in both photos were done with the random colors the object had, creating this mesh of dark colors, which are mostly reds and blues. This shows that the lighter colors were not picked up. Although this creates something otherworldly, the colors do not stand out as they are dark and blend into the background a little too much. Possibly for next time, I may need to move the light slower then dscf1335
done for these photos. as the camera might find it a little difficult to capture if the light was moving quickly. The photos show that the end of the stick was visible as thin lines are shown more then streaks, which do show up, but are blended into the background. Which this photo on the right, the object was moved around in a circle, which created this wormhole effect, but still looks faded as the light is shown more when the object is repeatedly moved in the same area. This shows that for next time, I need to slow the movements of the object to create more prominent photos. After doing this, I then used light to highlight objects. I had dscf1353done this by using a flashlight app on my phone and slowly moving it around the object. With this, the light was more brighter so the camera picked it up better then the light stick. With this, I had experimented with different ways That light can be used. These two photos show this. The first photo I tried to create light on the object, but it didn’t turn out right as the light only illuminated the back where the camera could not pick up. The photo below this one shows the object fully illuminated as I had lit up the part of the object dscf1347that was facing the camera first, then created a pattern behind it. The worked better as the object can be seen better then the photo above, which I didn’t do for this one. In the third photo, I wanted the light to be shown that it was coming out the object. It took me a few tries to do as I had not managed to get the light close to the top of the object to make it look like it was emitting light. By this photo, I decided to turn off the light after I lit up the object and turned it on again when my phone was close to the top. Resulting in this photodscf1359. Although it could be better if there was more light in the photo instead of one streak exiting out of the top of the frame.





flat lighting

This week in the studio, I learned flat lighting. This lighting is usually for photos for passports or in professional photoshoots where lots of light is needed. In my opinion, I find this lighting technique quite boring compared to the other lighting techniques I have learned. This is because, especially for head shots, the face needs to be lit up and no shadows are visible. This is done by using two lights facing around 45 degrees on the face, so that light is cast over the entire face. Sometimes for women, three lights are needed to illuminate under the chin. It is also boring because there is no define style compared to rembrandt, which has a style I like or butterfly lighting, where it has some shadow.


filters in darkroom

In the darkroom this week, we are still using our negatives to create an enlarged image of them, but instead we began using filters to create tones on our images. I found it a little difficult to correctly expose the image, as some of my images I took are dark, so I needed to work out the correct time to expose the image. this was the same for using the filters as well, usually because they can alter the image to either be darker or lighter depending on the filter used. for an image, I wanted to use a lighter filter to bring out the details of it. but unfortunately it became too light as when I developed it, nothing appeared, meaning that I needed to expose the image for more time. Luckily, these were test strips, so that I wouldn’t be wasting paper.

Practical work and Jen Stark

we learned about Jen Stark’s work and done some practical work, who specializes in this field of work. we used a photo and copied it a few times to make the effect that the picture looks 3D. this is done by layering the photos on top of each other. I chose a photo of the college stairs, which I thought could be useful in 3D. I decided to make parts of the stairs, the underside of the first floor and the wall stand out by using the extra photos and cutting them out to layer them onto of the original photo. to make it stand out more, I used three layers that were levitated to give a sense of depth, the top layer being the bottom part of the stairs and the underside of the first floor.

10th November

dscf1216Dungeness trip

this week, I went to Dungeness on Monday. It was a unique place to visit as it is very quiet and not many people had visited it when we did. I had to get to the college earlier then normal as we had to leave at 8am, as it took over two hours to get there. When we did get there, we had most of the beach to roam, which could be the reason why I never really saw anyone else. Which was fine as I could take picture without worrying that someone is in it. The one thing I didn’t think about before going was how windy it would have been. I expected some rain, which I thought wouldn’t really be a problem, but with the rain it did. Most of the photos I had taken were very blurry due the wind, and standing to try to take a photo with the wind was harder then I thought. The photo on the left was supposed to be a depth of field photo, but due to the wind blowing harshly, the photo became blurry and out of focus. The photo on the right, although is in focus and had detail in, it is ruined by the water droplets that were on the lens as it was raining. This could have been prevented if I had a lens hood to shield the lens from the rain, but I didn’t have one with me at the time so I had to use my hand to protect the lens or face away from the direction of the rain. Or wiping the rain off. With the wind, I waited until it had died down to a reasonable level to take a photo.



I didn’t want people in my photos because I wadscf1245ned to show the stillness and quite the place had. With the old boats on the beach, it looked like it had been abandoned for a time before people were using it again. The photo on the
right shows two boats that were left on the beach as they couldn’t be used anymore due to their age. Showing that people did used them, but with some of the boats that are newer, people do still live in them, which made it a little hard to take photos as some people might not want photos of their boats taken.



With this photo, I wanted to capture the dscf1301
rays of light coming through the clouds. I did this by lowering the aperture so that the camera could pick the up, meaning that it would be underexposed. But if the camera was correctly exposed, the rays of light wouldn’t shown up in the photo along with the shapes of the clouds in the sky. Again, with this photo, you can see some of the water droplets on the lens and the glare of them in the lower left corner that was left after I wiped the lens. I did the same with dscf1307
the rainbow I taken a photo of. I again lowered the aperture as it wouldn’t be picked up. I wanted to show the detail and colour of the rainbow. Also by lowering the aperture, it also captures the quietness of the place, showing that it being dark, it is mostly left and the rainbow and the rays of light bring vibrance to it. Also by lowering the aperture, it also shows the rainy weather at the time.


3rd November



Invisible black background

On Monday in the studio, we learned how to make an invisible black background with lights, instead of turning them off. We did this by turning the aperture to 200, the f.stop at 11 and the iso at 100. By doing this, if you take a picture, it would be black and nothing should show up, if something does, that means that the aperture need to be lowered even more. Then with the flash, the subject should be the only thing that shows up. If the aperture wasn’t lowered enough, then the background would show up in the photo if you are using the flash. The photo below on the left shows what it would look like without the flash. Which would be complete black. The photo on the right is what it would look like with the flash on, which shows the subject only. This in effect creates the black background as the camera cannot pick up what is behind her. This technique is used for head shots for professional businesses.



More depth of field

We had also done more depth of field as well. But we had done this in the style of Goldsworthy. I still had problems with this as I had trouble focusing the camera on the stones I used. As the camera kept focusing on the background more. One thing I had noticed is that with the correctly exposure, the details and the colour of the stones are lost at times, as like the photo on the left. This photo, even though is at the correct exposure, the colour of the stones is lost and blend onto each other. The photo on the right however, shows more colour and also shows more sharp detail, whereas the photo on the right does not show was much and the details are blended.



turning negatives of a film in positive image

using the film we had taken photos of two weeks ago and developed them, we turned some of the images on the film to positive images that were enlarged. This was done by using a piece of equipment where you put the piece of film into to shine an enlarged version onto light sensitive paper. But I needed to make sure it was in focus otherwise the picture would be blurry. To do this, there was a magnify scope to see the grain of the film. If this is visible, then the photo would be in focus. I tested this by using a small strip of paper to see if it was exposed at the right time. Unfortunately, I had a bit of trouble as some the of photos turned up black, which meant I had to lower the amount of time exposed. I still had problems as I had the paper exposed at the lowest time and it still turned out black. I resolved this by turning the brightness of the light down, which helped but still turned out dark. I resulted in trying another photo from the negatives. Which turned out better as it had more detail then the one I was using before. Once I was happy with the right exposure, I used half of the paper to enlarge it.