Invisible black background
On Monday in the studio, we learned how to make an invisible black background with lights, instead of turning them off. We did this by turning the aperture to 200, the f.stop at 11 and the iso at 100. By doing this, if you take a picture, it would be black and nothing should show up, if something does, that means that the aperture need to be lowered even more. Then with the flash, the subject should be the only thing that shows up. If the aperture wasn’t lowered enough, then the background would show up in the photo if you are using the flash. The photo below on the left shows what it would look like without the flash. Which would be complete black. The photo on the right is what it would look like with the flash on, which shows the subject only. This in effect creates the black background as the camera cannot pick up what is behind her. This technique is used for head shots for professional businesses.
More depth of field
We had also done more depth of field as well. But we had done this in the style of Goldsworthy. I still had problems with this as I had trouble focusing the camera on the stones I used. As the camera kept focusing on the background more. One thing I had noticed is that with the correctly exposure, the details and the colour of the stones are lost at times, as like the photo on the left. This photo, even though is at the correct exposure, the colour of the stones is lost and blend onto each other. The photo on the right however, shows more colour and also shows more sharp detail, whereas the photo on the right does not show was much and the details are blended.
turning negatives of a film in positive image
using the film we had taken photos of two weeks ago and developed them, we turned some of the images on the film to positive images that were enlarged. This was done by using a piece of equipment where you put the piece of film into to shine an enlarged version onto light sensitive paper. But I needed to make sure it was in focus otherwise the picture would be blurry. To do this, there was a magnify scope to see the grain of the film. If this is visible, then the photo would be in focus. I tested this by using a small strip of paper to see if it was exposed at the right time. Unfortunately, I had a bit of trouble as some the of photos turned up black, which meant I had to lower the amount of time exposed. I still had problems as I had the paper exposed at the lowest time and it still turned out black. I resolved this by turning the brightness of the light down, which helped but still turned out dark. I resulted in trying another photo from the negatives. Which turned out better as it had more detail then the one I was using before. Once I was happy with the right exposure, I used half of the paper to enlarge it.