7th December

update-3D image

this is an update to my final 3D image. so far, I ran into a few problems. Yesterday, I wanted to take a few photos to use for my image. Unfortunately, the weather turned out to be very foggy and misty, meaning that I couldn’t use images or take images on that day because the fog would ruin the 3D sculpture as I wanted a clear day. so instead, I used photos that I had already taken beforehand. because of this, I ended up being a little behind on working on the image. meaning that I haven’t finished putting together the sculpture to photograph. So today, I am planning to finish today and shoot photos to edit together for my final image. tomorrow, I will finish editing my image.

5th december

3D image

I had decided to use a 3D image for my final image for this project. to do this, I had planned out what I need to do throughout the week. the image shScreen Shot 2016-12-05 at 2.00.23 PM.pngown to the time schedule I have planned out in order to do this. my plan for the 3D image is to
make a layered photo and taking a photo of it. the image I am planning to use is rows of trees on either side of the image, creating a walkthrough in the middle. by doing this, I can carefully cut out the leaves, making sure that the image stays together. I plan to make a few copies of the image to layer it.

to layer it, I began thinking of putting the image onto some cardboard and sticking it upright onto more cardboard that will act as the base. by doing this, each layer will be spaced out evenly. as shown with the rough sketch on the right.Screen Shot 2016-12-05 at 2.09.30 PM.png

I got this idea when I wanted to do something with layers as I wanted to do something that was like Jen Stark. My first idea was to use a picnic table and layer that to have perspective, i.e. the table being higher from the ground then the seat. but due to time and location, I may not have enough time to complete this, so I explored the idea further. I began further research on layered images other then photography and found these types of books that have depth in them, i.e. parts of the pages cut out to show the detail of the pages underneath them. this gave me the idea for my final image.

as well as using 3D imagery, I am also using perspective in the image as well. I am doing this by using someone for my photo and edit the, into my sculpture though Photoshop.

an example of jen starks work. I took the base of laUnknown.jpegyering the image from this. unfortunately, with the books with depth, I don’t know what they are called so I don’t have an image to compare it with.


1st December

Planning with digital journal

today will be more about planning in my digital journal. From my feedback from the last project, I need to have more detail in my evaluations. Meaning that I need to be more critical when evaluating my own work as I do so on a basic level. I need to evaluate on why and how things either went well or did not and how it can be fixed. I also need to develop my critical thinking with in my digital journal or blog. this also means that my annotations have to be more critical as well, as I said before say if something went wrong, why it went wrong and how to correct it.

I also need to link research I have found in the outcomes I have. from my feedback, I realized that it did not seam like I was using it. so for this project, I will make sure that I link the research. Also with the research, I need to explore other research methods to include in my digital journal. which could be from books, journals or film itself and how it fits in with the current project. I also need to do more deeper research and what the reasons the photographers or the movements have to their work. to do this, I need to create mind maps, sketches and lists and then analyse the research I have found. to formulate more research, I need to look at other methods other then the internet, such as magazines and tv, which uses photography and how they use it.


Edge/Rim lighting

this week in the studio, we learned how to create edge lighting photos. these photos are done for dramatic effect, which is used for promo photography for superhero films. this is done because the lights outline the figure and brings out their mass, or muscle. the two lights face the subject from behind, usually the lights hits the shoulders in order for the light to highlight the subjects sides. there is also a third light that illuminates the subject that is placed in front of them. this light is usually dimmer then the two edge lights to keep the dramatic effect. with my photos, I noticed that with the camera I was using, it was on a low f-stop. meaning that the photo turned out darker then what was needed. By turning up the f-stop, the photo was brighter and looks more dramatic. what I found was that I had trouble focusing the camera as some of the photos turned out a little blurry.


3D effects on photos 

3D imagery is used to make the image stand out. this is normally done in films to make the audience feel like they are part of the action. but with films, the 3D effect may not work with some. for example,the effect may not work with cgi if the film is a semi live action film. so that means that for the effect to work, the image/film needs to be the same throughout.

24th november

Clamshell lighting

this week we learned how to create clamshell lighting in the studio. this is done with two lights, one which is angled above the subject and another, which is a filler light, below. this is done to create a smooth and natural look. with this lighting technique, it can enhance the facial structure due to the position of the lights. they create soft shadows under the cheekbones and a slightly deeper shadow under the chin to extenuate the jawline. the shadows are controlled by the second light as it controls the intensity of the shadows. it looks close to flat lighting, but with this technique, it brings out the facial structure instead of blending them out. with flat lighting, it doesn’t bring out any shadows, which means it does not extenuates the face as much as clamshell lighting.

More practical work research/layers

we research more about different photographers who use layers in their work. we researched Olga Ganzha and Chloe Ostmo, who use layers in their work. Ostmo showcases her work by hanging the individual parts of a photo from the ceiling and placing them in a way that you need to look in a specific way to see the whole photo.


we learned a technique called dodge and burn, which is used if parts of the image needs to be exposed longer then others. this is done by first exposing the while image first, then a piece of black card is hovered over a part of the image that does not need to be exposed longer. shaking it in order to fade both parts of the image together and to not create a visible line. I found this a little difficult as I had to guess where to put the card. another technique we learned was to blend two images together. this is also done with the dodge and burn technique, but instead covers half of the paper first to get the effect. I also had trouble with this due to guessing where the images blend together. I overcame this by testing first how it would look like. another technique was double exposure, like the technique done in photoshop, you use two images and blend them together. in the darkroom, this is done by placing two negatives into the holder and exposing them to create the effect. this looks better then on photoshop as the images keep their detail while exposed. Again, with this I had problems, mostly to do with exposure. because the images were dark in the negatives, I found it hard to correctly expose them. some of by test images were either too dark or nothing showed up.

17th November

dscf1336light drawing

This week, we learned how to create light drawings. Which is basically a photo that uses light to draw something. this is done by putting the camera on a timer where it process the photo at a slow rate in order to pick up the light. This needed to be done in the dark, otherwise the camera would not pick up the light as well. For example, if it was done in a well lit room, the light used to create the drawing would not be as defined as well if it was in a dark room. I tested it with this light up stick that Barry brought in, which reminded me of a lightsaber.


With these photos, we used the makeshift lightsaber to create patterns. The colors shown in both photos were done with the random colors the object had, creating this mesh of dark colors, which are mostly reds and blues. This shows that the lighter colors were not picked up. Although this creates something otherworldly, the colors do not stand out as they are dark and blend into the background a little too much. Possibly for next time, I may need to move the light slower then dscf1335
done for these photos. as the camera might find it a little difficult to capture if the light was moving quickly. The photos show that the end of the stick was visible as thin lines are shown more then streaks, which do show up, but are blended into the background. Which this photo on the right, the object was moved around in a circle, which created this wormhole effect, but still looks faded as the light is shown more when the object is repeatedly moved in the same area. This shows that for next time, I need to slow the movements of the object to create more prominent photos. After doing this, I then used light to highlight objects. I had dscf1353done this by using a flashlight app on my phone and slowly moving it around the object. With this, the light was more brighter so the camera picked it up better then the light stick. With this, I had experimented with different ways That light can be used. These two photos show this. The first photo I tried to create light on the object, but it didn’t turn out right as the light only illuminated the back where the camera could not pick up. The photo below this one shows the object fully illuminated as I had lit up the part of the object dscf1347that was facing the camera first, then created a pattern behind it. The worked better as the object can be seen better then the photo above, which I didn’t do for this one. In the third photo, I wanted the light to be shown that it was coming out the object. It took me a few tries to do as I had not managed to get the light close to the top of the object to make it look like it was emitting light. By this photo, I decided to turn off the light after I lit up the object and turned it on again when my phone was close to the top. Resulting in this photodscf1359. Although it could be better if there was more light in the photo instead of one streak exiting out of the top of the frame.





flat lighting

This week in the studio, I learned flat lighting. This lighting is usually for photos for passports or in professional photoshoots where lots of light is needed. In my opinion, I find this lighting technique quite boring compared to the other lighting techniques I have learned. This is because, especially for head shots, the face needs to be lit up and no shadows are visible. This is done by using two lights facing around 45 degrees on the face, so that light is cast over the entire face. Sometimes for women, three lights are needed to illuminate under the chin. It is also boring because there is no define style compared to rembrandt, which has a style I like or butterfly lighting, where it has some shadow.


filters in darkroom

In the darkroom this week, we are still using our negatives to create an enlarged image of them, but instead we began using filters to create tones on our images. I found it a little difficult to correctly expose the image, as some of my images I took are dark, so I needed to work out the correct time to expose the image. this was the same for using the filters as well, usually because they can alter the image to either be darker or lighter depending on the filter used. for an image, I wanted to use a lighter filter to bring out the details of it. but unfortunately it became too light as when I developed it, nothing appeared, meaning that I needed to expose the image for more time. Luckily, these were test strips, so that I wouldn’t be wasting paper.

Practical work and Jen Stark

we learned about Jen Stark’s work and done some practical work, who specializes in this field of work. we used a photo and copied it a few times to make the effect that the picture looks 3D. this is done by layering the photos on top of each other. I chose a photo of the college stairs, which I thought could be useful in 3D. I decided to make parts of the stairs, the underside of the first floor and the wall stand out by using the extra photos and cutting them out to layer them onto of the original photo. to make it stand out more, I used three layers that were levitated to give a sense of depth, the top layer being the bottom part of the stairs and the underside of the first floor.

10th November

dscf1216Dungeness trip

this week, I went to Dungeness on Monday. It was a unique place to visit as it is very quiet and not many people had visited it when we did. I had to get to the college earlier then normal as we had to leave at 8am, as it took over two hours to get there. When we did get there, we had most of the beach to roam, which could be the reason why I never really saw anyone else. Which was fine as I could take picture without worrying that someone is in it. The one thing I didn’t think about before going was how windy it would have been. I expected some rain, which I thought wouldn’t really be a problem, but with the rain it did. Most of the photos I had taken were very blurry due the wind, and standing to try to take a photo with the wind was harder then I thought. The photo on the left was supposed to be a depth of field photo, but due to the wind blowing harshly, the photo became blurry and out of focus. The photo on the right, although is in focus and had detail in, it is ruined by the water droplets that were on the lens as it was raining. This could have been prevented if I had a lens hood to shield the lens from the rain, but I didn’t have one with me at the time so I had to use my hand to protect the lens or face away from the direction of the rain. Or wiping the rain off. With the wind, I waited until it had died down to a reasonable level to take a photo.



I didn’t want people in my photos because I wadscf1245ned to show the stillness and quite the place had. With the old boats on the beach, it looked like it had been abandoned for a time before people were using it again. The photo on the
right shows two boats that were left on the beach as they couldn’t be used anymore due to their age. Showing that people did used them, but with some of the boats that are newer, people do still live in them, which made it a little hard to take photos as some people might not want photos of their boats taken.



With this photo, I wanted to capture the dscf1301
rays of light coming through the clouds. I did this by lowering the aperture so that the camera could pick the up, meaning that it would be underexposed. But if the camera was correctly exposed, the rays of light wouldn’t shown up in the photo along with the shapes of the clouds in the sky. Again, with this photo, you can see some of the water droplets on the lens and the glare of them in the lower left corner that was left after I wiped the lens. I did the same with dscf1307
the rainbow I taken a photo of. I again lowered the aperture as it wouldn’t be picked up. I wanted to show the detail and colour of the rainbow. Also by lowering the aperture, it also captures the quietness of the place, showing that it being dark, it is mostly left and the rainbow and the rays of light bring vibrance to it. Also by lowering the aperture, it also shows the rainy weather at the time.


3rd November



Invisible black background

On Monday in the studio, we learned how to make an invisible black background with lights, instead of turning them off. We did this by turning the aperture to 200, the f.stop at 11 and the iso at 100. By doing this, if you take a picture, it would be black and nothing should show up, if something does, that means that the aperture need to be lowered even more. Then with the flash, the subject should be the only thing that shows up. If the aperture wasn’t lowered enough, then the background would show up in the photo if you are using the flash. The photo below on the left shows what it would look like without the flash. Which would be complete black. The photo on the right is what it would look like with the flash on, which shows the subject only. This in effect creates the black background as the camera cannot pick up what is behind her. This technique is used for head shots for professional businesses.



More depth of field

We had also done more depth of field as well. But we had done this in the style of Goldsworthy. I still had problems with this as I had trouble focusing the camera on the stones I used. As the camera kept focusing on the background more. One thing I had noticed is that with the correctly exposure, the details and the colour of the stones are lost at times, as like the photo on the left. This photo, even though is at the correct exposure, the colour of the stones is lost and blend onto each other. The photo on the right however, shows more colour and also shows more sharp detail, whereas the photo on the right does not show was much and the details are blended.



turning negatives of a film in positive image

using the film we had taken photos of two weeks ago and developed them, we turned some of the images on the film to positive images that were enlarged. This was done by using a piece of equipment where you put the piece of film into to shine an enlarged version onto light sensitive paper. But I needed to make sure it was in focus otherwise the picture would be blurry. To do this, there was a magnify scope to see the grain of the film. If this is visible, then the photo would be in focus. I tested this by using a small strip of paper to see if it was exposed at the right time. Unfortunately, I had a bit of trouble as some the of photos turned up black, which meant I had to lower the amount of time exposed. I still had problems as I had the paper exposed at the lowest time and it still turned out black. I resolved this by turning the brightness of the light down, which helped but still turned out dark. I resulted in trying another photo from the negatives. Which turned out better as it had more detail then the one I was using before. Once I was happy with the right exposure, I used half of the paper to enlarge it.

20th October


This week, I learned how to create a image where you make the object or object float in the picture. I done this by taking a picture of the background first, then of the subject. Making sure that with both pictures line up correctly. Then cutting out the subject from the photo to make a new layer and making it. By doing this, I can get rid of what ever the subject was sitting on, as in both pictures below.


The second photo didn’t work as well as the first as the subject had their feet out of the shot, meaning that the illusion wouldn’t work well. Also that she was in a generic sitting position, meaning that it wouldn’t pass off as floating as it needs to be impossible. Which is shown in the first picture as it was my second attempt of creating a levitation photo. with was better as the subject was fully in the shot and is positioned in a way that it wouldn’t be possible. With the second image, there is lens glare, which would ruin a photo. If I am doing another outside photo, I would need to make sure that the camera is facing away from the sun to avoid the glare, or have a lens hood. I didn’t have a problem with this in the first image as it was taken inside.

Film Cameras

We also learned how to use old cameras that use film rolls. I learned how to place the roll of film into the camera, which was easier to do then I thought. We had to take pictures of anything that resembled the alphabet that I found a little difficult as I couldn’t find certain letters around the college. But I managed to get through the whole alphabet with extra film, which I just shot random images to use it up.

Then, we were shown how to put the film into the developing tub before doing it ourselves. It sounds easy, but the catch was that we had to do this in complete darkness. Which was a challenge as I couldn’t see what I was picking up or where the stuff was. Opening the canister to get the film was difficult, as it was sealed tight. But the hardest part was trying to get the film into the reel, I couldn’t find the end to put the film into.

Once we got the film into the tub, we had to develop it. Firstly by washing it and pouring developer into it and let it sit for seven and a half minutes, making sure to shake it each minute. Then rinsing it again in water for ten minutes before pouring fixer into it and waiting for five minutes. By this time, the film would be able to be taken out of the reel to dry.

13th October

Double Exposure

So, this week I used photoshop for the first time. This was for double exposure, where you combine two images together to create one photo. Because I have never used photoshop before, I found it challenging. The two videos that is on moodle I believe didn’t help as much as I found them confusing (they didn’t really point out where each tool was). I kept restarting as I kept going wrong, resulting in me being frustrated at my limited knowledge of photoshop.

Because of this, I had to ask a fellow classmate for help as they already finished their double exposure image. I found this more helpful as they clearly shown me how to use it.

This is the first image that I had help on.


You can see that the two images are of my friend and of a tree, edited together to make it look like that she has a tree growing out of her head. It still not perfect as the image of the tree still has the white background between the leaves as well as around the shoulders, where I hadn’t edited out.


This photo I did mostly on my own, still getting help from my friend when I needed it. It didn’t go as I wanted it to. It may be because of the gap in the tree that I placed over the eye, as that detracts from the double exposure. Compared to the first image, the double exposure isn’t as noticeable. Next time when I make double exposure images, I’ll choose portrait photos that isn’t face on and instead have a side profile of the person’s head. As that was easier to do.


Creative blurring

We had also done Creative blurring, where the shutter speed is low and you have to move the camera in either a diagonal or horizontal line. This create an effect where the object is blurred into a straight line. Mostly used for car lights on the motorway to  create a busy road.


This is one of the first attempts of creating creative blurring. I found it difficult as I couldn’t create it, and only shooting perfect photos. With this photo, you can tell there is some blurring, but not enough. I feel that I either need to turn my camera faster or to lower the f. stop if it is too high.



In the darkroom, we learned how to change a negative image into a positive one. This is done by placing a negative image (which is either from the light sensitive paper or a inverted printed photo) onto a clean sheet of light sensitive paper and putting light on to it. By doing this, the light hits an area of the paper that is not black and vice versa, resulting in creating a positive image. I experimented on how long it had to be under the light and the best results were around 3-4 seconds. I also experimented on a double sided inverted paper, where there was an image on either side that was inverted. The result was that the image that was face down showed up more then the image facing up, which just about showed up. This may because the image face down was darker, cancelling out the other image as it was light. So if I do this again, I might used images that have the same amount of light in each image.

I did something like this a few weeks ago with my pin hole images


29th September

dscf0843We focused more on Depth of field this week as well as using angles and rule of thirds. I managed to get the grips of depth of field, I realized that I needed to be closer to the object and to use the focal length to get the object into focus (shown in the photo above). By doing this, I managed to have perfect photos. But despite this, some outside photos are darker because of the aperture I forgot to change. dscf0850

This is a result of not changing the aperture, showing that the camera focused on the ground instead of the bike tire.

Trying to find different angles to shoot was difficult as I kept on seeing lines, either from shadows or the building itself. But I did find some. Such as the bike tire and the yellow circle and the red no entry sign, which also shows depth of field as it was shot through the glass. I think this is one of my best photos I’ve done for depth of field.DSCF0830.JPG

Rule of thirds is still something I have trouble with, I’m not sure what to take photos of for it. I might also be that I’m not sure how some objects can fit onto the guidelines. I might need to practice with this more to get the hang of it.



We also used the studio to get the grips of the Rembrandt lighting technique. I found it hard to position the light just right to have the perfect triangle of light under the eye. A few attempts the triangle of light was longer then the nose, so I had to adjust the light more.

This week, I used the darkroom for the first time. We did key hole photography, where you used either a can or a box that needs to be completely dark inside apart from a small hole for the light to go through. The first attempt, it turned out a little dark. Meaning that I need to wait for a shorter amount of time before developing the picture. Which I did for the second attempt, which turned out too light. Unfortunately, the next pictures, nothing showed up, meaning that I either left it too long or I placed the paper in the wrong way. Afterwards, I done the positive of the key hole pictures, which is where you place the negative on top of a clean sheet and shine light onto it. Turning the white to black and vise versa. I also done the photograms that I missed in the first week, which was placing objects onto the sheet and shining light onto it before developing.